Saturday, December 29, 2007

Bones

I realize there is a fair bit of irony in a former vegan getting excited about cooking (and subsequently eating) bone marrow, but nonetheless, here we are. This all started with my quest to find a substantial bone/chew-toy for Olive, our pit bull/shepherd mix, who seems to be able to dismantle any store-bought rawhide or other chew item within a matter of minutes. I remembered my mom always giving my childhood dog the bone from a large roundsteak she'd cook up and he always loved it. He was a much smaller dog than Olive though, who would probably swallow one of those roundsteak bones whole. In the process, I've seen and read things on how roasted bone marrow, though it's fatty and can be a challenging (gelatinous) texture, is truly delicious. So I decided to try and please both man and beast in a single culinary act. Olive was, of course, very happy with my decision to attempt this.

I'd seen the episode of No Reservations where Tony Bourdain and company drool over the roasted bone marrow on toast at Prune in NYC. Though I'm sure my preparation was far less glamorous, I consulted various internet sources and my trusty Joy of Cooking, all of which basically suggested to wash, dry, salt & pepper, roast and enjoy. Unfortunately, I overlooked the serving vehicle since I was too excited over just getting the bones themselves. Since the chances of finding decent bread in my town at the unreasonable hour I was preparing this were slim, I had to opt for the multi-grain sandwich loaf I'd bought a day earlier. I figured the bread was not to be the star of this effort anyway, so it shouldn't matter too much, especially on this marrow maiden journey. I essentially took the bones from the package, rinsed them, added some kosher salt and cracked pepper, then roasted at 300 for an hour. Admittedly, the result was a bit underwhelming. I was left with a far greater volume of liquid fat than spreadable marrow. If I have to go into failure analysis, I would list the following as possible contributors:
  • I am a lousy cook
  • Poor quality bones/marrow
  • Excessive cooking time/temperature
  • I am a lousy cook
Then, there is always the possibility that the "hype" behind this really just led me to believe I would end up with a far different product than I did. Maybe as the father of a two-year old, I just consume way too many fish sticks and toasted ravioli, and maybe my palate isn't what it should be to appreciate the finer, more subtle tastes such as this. Or maybe marrow is marrow and some people just really get off on digging fat and gelatin out of animal bones. This first draft really just netted me a little bit of beef flavored jelly on toast, with a lot of liquid fat I can use later in a sauce or other application. All things considered, it was pretty tasty. My colon-blow whole grain bread had a pretty strong overtone, so that was likely a contributor as well. A more neutral white(r) bread may have let the marrow shine a bit more. I got really excited about eating, so the after photo has a bite out of it......Olive is asleep at this point, but she's going to have quite a treat in the morning.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

What's for dinner???

Sweet sweet short ribs....















- This was 4 beef short ribs, about 1.5 lbs.
- Oven to 375
- Season w/ rosemary/thyme/kosher salt/cracked pepper
- Sear in olive oil ~2min per side, remove to a plate
- Add a medium onion and a garlic clove, sliced to the remaining oil & fat that have rendered out during the sear. Give them a quick saute until just browned & remove to the plate w/ the ribs
- Add 2 cups stock (chicken will do, but I had turkey stock from the smoked turkey I did at Thanksgiving) and 1 cup beer (I used O'fallon smoked porter)
- Bring the stock & beer to a boil, scraping all the browned bits off the bottom of the pan
- Add the ribs & onions back to the pot, cover and braise for about 2 hours.
- Add a few chopped carrots in to the braising liquid about 5-6 minutes before the meat is done.
- After the ribs were done, I strained the sauced, which had greatly reduced and made a thin gravy by adding a little butter, flour and more pepper. Looking back, I would have just kept it as a reduction as the gravy tasted a bit flour-y. But even mediocre gravy is still gravy....
- The white stuff is horseradish mashed red potatoes
- Sorry the photos are blurry. Either my eyes are going or the fact that I was really hungry when making this wouldn't allow me to hold the camera steady...

Sunday, December 2, 2007

I'm going to wreck you.

Yeah, this about sums it up.


Thanksgiving bird.



This year, we were again fortunate enough that no less than two families wanted us to come over for Thanksgiving. Maybe they just wanted to see Ava, but there is baggage associated with that (Celia and I). As such, we didn't have any leftovers for ourselves. I picked up a smoker at the end of summer and have been toying around with various cuts of meat and flavors, so I decided to smoke a turkey breast the Saturday after Thanksgiving. It was the whole breast "cavity" so there were actually two breast sections, plus the carcass and some other bits left over to make stock.

I stuffed some olive oil soaked sage (from the garden) under the skin and used apples, cider, beer and bay leaves in the water pan. All I had in the wood department was apple chips and hickory chunks, so I started with the chips, then added the chunks about halfway through. The result was really good, given it was the first turkey I'd ever cooked. Really moist with a sweet, smoky flavor. I didn't really notice much in the way of an apple aroma or taste, but I'm sure it helped mellow out the smoke a bit. Rumor has it we're hosting Thanksgiving next year, so I'm really looking forward to coming up with a couple good ideas for turkey and some other animal to cook up.

Ava is two.


Ava turned two over Thanksgiving. Cliches aside, it's really hard to believe she was just a baby such a short time ago. A woman I work with very generously gave us a kitchen set for her (her grandkids grew out of it), which couldn't have been better timing. She must have played with it for two solid days straight. Now, she's always asking if we want coffee or chicken. She stews the magnetic refrigerator letters in a pot and calls it soup. I'm going to show her the art of braising soon.